You'll need a lot of pressure when troweling, but it's the best way for an even consistent spread. Definitely, try troweling it on some scrap ply and glue other scrap to it. When I've used LN (before I had a clue), trying to squeeze it down was futile. Wood moves quite differently than the concrete and depending on the humidity variations, gluing the entire tread could cause some serious problems.
I'd only apply it to the the back edge and a couple place at the center edges. Unless you live in an extremely dry area like Paul, I'd be hesitant to use it on the whole tread. With an even distribution of the LN, you'll get a much better adhesion and avoid any drum issues. The reason is that if you just squirt out a bead of it then apply the stair box, the LN doesn't spread around you'll eventually have those beads cured so the step is only adhered in those areas worse, the areas between the beads will act like a mini drum when people walk on it. When you apply it, I'd trowel it around with a notched trowel (1/4" or 3/16"). Wipe the concrete with a damp sponge before you start to get rid of the dust and give the LN a better surface to grip. So Liquid Nail is thick so spreading it is, uhm, fun. If you don't want a chemical stripper like the concrete etchants, use a coarse sand paper like P60 or P80 on a disc sander to scuff up the surface Just remember to etch the glazing off the concrete steps so the glue has a better adhesion. But, I bought the heavy duty liquid nails, is it okay with this?ĭefinitely should work out okay with the heavy duty. I went to home depot and found liquid nails even cheaper than the "no mas clavos" and actually bought a Beats The Nails from DAP, they were both cheaper and if you have used it for the same purpose I rather just use liquid nails. Heck, Liquid Nail is water-based and can cause problems when you glue-down unsealed wood. I'm sure you will, but seal all sides of the oak including the side that gets glued down or seasonal moisture will make a mess of your work especially that it is attached to concrete. Try a water-based one, though, as the fumes were infinitely better than some of the straight acids. I used a water-based product to etch, but it is difficult to get outside the American southwest. You can get concrete etching solutions that work pretty quickly and would take off that glazing so the glue sticks better. If people have been walking on the concrete directly, it might be glazed over and won't be the best surface for the glue.
I've used Liquid Nails like Vic suggested to stick wood to concrete and it definitely holds tight.
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